How to paint the walls in a room (DIY)

 If there is something someone with no previous construction experience is going to attempt on their home, chances are its painting. You can't really cause a lot of damage if it's done incorrectly but you can make a mess! The basics of painting are not rocket science of course but most people hate the actual process of painting because its messy and they have no system on how get things done efficiently like a professional. I'm going to cover the process of painting the walls in a room for the DIY'ers out there so that it's a less daunting task, better yet, actually manageable for anyone to handle. If you break anything down into smaller parts, it becomes a lot more achievable. 

One of the first things you will want to do is move all the furniture to the center of the room and away from the walls. Next remove anything and everything from the walls. If you have a mounted TV or something else large, heavy, awkward or just a pain to take down you can always paint around it. NOTE: (A professional painting company should be removing everything and anything off the walls. This may be with or without your help.) Next you may have to dust or clean the walls in some areas. At this point you can remove any nail or tacks in the wall that are not being used. These nail holes can be filled with any drywall spackle before painting. One of the last things you will want to do is remove all electrical faceplates from the walls. A good thing to do is just tape the hardware to the plate.

Now that the furniture is out of the way and the walls are prepped its almost time to paint. Wiping down the trim boards is something you will want to do if you don't plan on painting them. Once that's done you can tape off the lip of the base boards and place some painters drops down. The tape acts as a barrier for cutting in the trim and also from paint splatter when your rolling walls. Now this next step can vary depending on if you have a helper or not.  Some companies will have one person cutting in walls, ceilings and base boards while at the same time a second painter will be rolling out the walls. However, if your solo you can do either first, it doesn't really make a huge difference. But assuming you have little experience I would suggest cutting in the walls first that way you won't have to worry about touching a freshly painted wall as your cutting things in.

  For cutting the walls in you will want a smaller container that you can fit a brush into that you can preferably hold onto easily. Painters usually call this a "Cutting pot". An old paint or coffee can will do. A solid rule of thumb is to cut ceilings in first and anything else that you will need the ladder for. That way, all that is left is corners and base boards. You will want to make the cut in lines about 5 inches wide so that you can get close to the ceiling and trim with the roller without touching them. Once that's been completed throughout the room get your paint in a 5-gallon bucket or tray. If you decide to use a 5-gallon bucket you will need a screen for the roller. This will allow for you to roll off excess paint. Trays have ridges and indentations that are supposed to act like a screen but in my opinion bucket, screen and roller is the way to go. A painters extension pole or old mop handle should be able to screw into the bottom of the roller handle and this will help reach the higher areas of the wall.

Dip your roller in and out of the paint and then roll it on the screen to completely saturate the roller with paint. With a fully loaded roller, going up towards the ceilings press the roller on the wall and start moving the roller in a vertical/parallel motion only up to your cut in line. With that much paint on the wall you will want to continue rolling in that vertical motion while going over your last roller pass by 50%. Continuing this process of wetting the rolling, rolling the paint out smoothly and overlapping each pass by 50% is how to achieve a smooth finish. Just like anything, the more you do it the better you'll get, and it will make more sense. Now depending on the color and paint you choose you may need to repeat this entire process for a second coat. Good news is, the second coat goes a lot faster. If you chose a similar color, chances are only one coat is needed. On the other hand, when you're doing a complete color change 2 coats will probably be needed for full coverage. Just remember you get what you pay for and the cheapest paints don't cover well while some higher end paints claim to cover in one coat. Whatever route you decide, I wish you good luck and to not forget your painter whites!

Best Practices for wallpaper removal!

 One thing that seems to go in and out of style is wallpaper. Some people love it while others hate the look of it. Many times, however in our modern era you'll see it mostly to preserve a certain look or in children's rooms or offices. Regardless of the situation you should know wallpaper can be very tricky to remove. Whether you're looking to replace the wallpaper, change the look or remove it completely, it really helps to know how to do it properly so that it won't take forever but also so you don't damage to the wall. After reading this you should definitely have a solid understanding of the process and how to do it. If it becomes too time consuming or too daunting of a task just call a professional, a lot of times you may just have to pay a flat hourly rate depending on how long it takes to remove.

 Like anything we do for the first time, it will probably go slow at first but once you get the hang of things it will go a lot faster. Anyone can do it and it doesn't require many steps it just one of the things that's hard to judge how long it will take, but also easy to get faster and faster at as you go. Before you begin you will need a scraper, a scoring tool, wallpaper removal spray, a few rags, gloves and then a trash bag because it gets very messy. As far as wallpaper removal spray you should use, I would honestly recommend any from Lowes, Home Depot or Sherwin Willimas. I have never had a bad experience with any of the brands they carry.

To begin you will want to score one section at a time. Whether you're removing from an entire wall or just a border the process is the same. Start on a corner or an overlapping piece and score one section at a time maybe just a 1ft x 1ft area. Don't be shy on this step because you want the scoring tool to go through and rip the wallpaper but also not to aggressive so that you start to damage the wall. Next you will want to spray the section down with your wallpaper removal spray. Wearing the gloves, you will want to get the entire section damp with the spray. I would recommend letting it soak in for about 1-3 minutes before you start to scrape it off. If wallpaper has been on for a long time, then this may take more time and require more than one score and spray. Repeat this process over and over until everything is removed. Once you get going, you'll get a good gauge on how long it will take. and how much spray to use.

Again, this may take a few attempts depending on how old the wallpaper is. Alot of times when you have scraped everything off, little pieces of the paste and old paper will be left behind dried up on the wall. If that's the case, put your gloves on to use one of your rags and dampen it with the wallpaper removal and just scrub the wall down as it should all loosen up and come off. Because it does create such a mess and there are so many tiny pieces that fly around, I like to clean up as I go. Covering the ground and using a vacuum and broom make it a lot faster to clean up as well. So, there you have it. A simple yet very effective process with easy instructions. At the bottom I will attach products I have used in the past that I know work. As well as a video link to see how it's done on a wall border. Good luck and have patience. 

Wallpaper Scoring Tool - Sherwin-Williams

Roman PRO-458 Wallpaper and Paste Remover Gel Spray | SherwinWilliams (sherwin-williams.com)

Reviews for Zinsser 32 oz. Ultra Power Wallpaper Stripper | Pg 1 - The Home Depot

Top Choice Paint and Stain (@tcpaintandstain) | Instagram profile

What tape should I use for my painting or staining project??

 Believe it or not you can use the wrong or inferior type of tape when masking things off before a paint job. The different colors tape comes depends on the manufacturer however it can also be an indicator for its main purpose and use. You will primarily see about 5 different colors, Tan, blue, green, yellow and orange. Now these can be used interchangeably however they do have specific uses for best results.

For quick paint jobs the tan or also referred to as contractor tape is your best option. It sticks for about 2-3 days without leaving residue and is a great all-around tape. Paint will bleed through however if you rely too much on the tape for a straight line. Blue tape or painter's tape is great for interior and exterior projects. The residue on blue tape usually is not as strong as the contractor tape so it's not the best for rough surfaces. It will however have a less chance of bleeding through and can stay on as long as 14 days without leaving residue. 

Green Tape primarily known as frog tape is amazing for interior projects. It's a medium residue tape with paint blocking technology allowing for smooth and crips lines so you can get paint on the tape without any worries. Next you will find yellow tape. This tape is best used for delicate surfaces such as floors, furnishings, cabinets etc. Using the wrong tape can cause damage to these delicate surfaces when pulling it off or you'll find yourself cleaning off the residue left behind. Lastly, you'll notice there is orange tape as well. This is a tape best used on rough or uneven areas primarily on exterior surfaces. You will want to leave on for a maximum of 7 days depending on the manufacturer. These can also come with UV protection technology.

To sum things up there are a few options for each kind of job so it's up to you to determine what you want to spend and how much you want to rely on the tape over your painting skills. Don't get me wrong some tapes are a lot more expensive than others, but it can be worth it to avoid a headache later on.  In the end remember a delicate surface should have a low adhesion tape applied, most interior work can be done with a medium adhesion tape.  And for exterior work you will primarily want a combination of high and medium adhesion tape. Educate yourself on the different options and read the descriptions of recommended use so you can have your highest chance of success.

What Paint grade/Quality should I use?

 What paint should I use for my project? This is a question that is frequently asked. The first thing to answer is what are you painting? Is it interior or exterior? You will find that there are many different companies that make paint. Most people know Sherwin Williams, Behr or Valspar. This is a great start however each of these have different qualities and grades you'll want to pay attention too when deciding for your project. In realty your budget will play a big role on what you choose, and all paint will color and cover whatever you put it on. However, its these things you'll want to think about so that you can put yourself in the best position for a successful and lasting outcome. Unless your using interior paint for an exterior job you can't choose the wrong paint per say but you can set yourself up to have it done again sooner then you thought.

Overall if you choose the cheapest paint, you'll probably get a result that is similar and won't last as long. Chipping and peeling will most likely occur faster along with fading color. These price differences vs quality differences are major when comparing the most expensive product to the cheapest product. Sometimes slapping some paint on something is all you need while other times you want a nice long-lasting finish that can stand up to some abuse from humans or natural elements. Cheaper paints will not cover light stains or previous colors as well as a mid-grade paint. You usually need more coats when using lower grade paint to achieve a nice rich color. Cheaper paints are not the friendliest when it comes to cleaning them especially low-grade interior paint.

When going from mid-grade to top quality paints you'll notice the differences are a little more subtle yet effective. Fewer coats are needed with high quality paint. A rich smooth color can be achieved quicker and last longer. The paint may dry faster or be more resistant to moisture. Sometimes the formulas of higher-grade paint are modified so that it produces little to no VOC or so that stains can be cleaned off without affecting the paint. In the case for the applicator, you'll notice cheaper paints are usually thinner and don't roll or brush out as smooth as mid to higher grade products. More frequent paint drips and messy overspray are also things you can expect when using cheaper paint.

In the long run do a little research on what paint to use and don't go the cheapest route if you want a solid lasting outcome. To be honest I have used a lot of different paint brands and I believe there are some out there that are more expensive because of how they are marketed. For example, I have used a higher mid-grade paint to achieve the same result as a "high grade paint".  It's totally understandable that there are times when all you want is to spend the least amount of money as possible however just consider when it's worth it and why you're doing it. Some brands have very little differences in their mid to high grade products so just take a look at the cans and make sure you're actually getting some added benefit or quality with the price tag.

What is Spot priming?

 Spot priming is exactly what it sounds like. It's the action of only priming spots that need to be. In the case with painting a home it would be all the bare wood areas after the scraping has been done. When a home is being prepared to be painted scraping has to be done. Scraping will reveal the worst peeling and chipping areas. This makes the spot priming easier and tells you where it's needed. A situation when spot priming would be used would be when you're painting the same color on the home and just need to touch a few spots up because you're only doing one coat. Another case would be spot priming an area that has a stain rather than the entire surface area. A good primer to use for these situations would be a high bonding primer. Preferrable something thicker than paint meant for spot priming.

Priming and spot priming are very important steps that cannot be skipped because it's essentially your first layer of protection. Bare areas are more vulnerable to the elements and to get the best result as possible a primer should be applied before paint. This not only promotes adhesion and bonding to the wood but is the foundation of the paint being applied. Without primer, areas peel and chip faster, collect moisture and overall don't last or look as good. This can lead to rotted wood or even worse internal damage to the home. Before priming make sure you're using the right product for the job. Anyone at the paint store should be able to briefly educate you on what to use. Some links are listed below on good primers for this kind of work. Remember if you want the hard work to last, prime bare areas with the right product and don't forget to give it 2 coats of paint after that!

Zinsser Peel Stop 1 gal. White Triple Thick Interior/Exterior High Build Binding Primer 260924 - The Home Depot

PrimeRx® Peel Bonding Primer - Sherwin-Williams

1 coat versus 2

 Some people will say one thick coat is good enough while others swear two is the only way to go. Although there is truth in both statements there really are times one is a better choice than the other. An obvious example of when two coats is needed is on a newly built home or a residential home that is completely changing color. An example of when one coat is a good idea is when you're doing a color match or slightly changing color. As long as the proper prep work has been done you will be in good shape and still have a lasting product. If you do one coat spot priming is an absolute must. A tip for spot priming is using a product that is the same or similar color to what you will be painting.

Another example of when one thick coat would be applied may be because of the customer's budget. As long as YOU the customer don't mind then this can be ok. Everything still must be prepped right though for things to last. If you go this route depending on the painter, you hire there are some risks. The color may cover 85% rather than 100%. Some areas may be missed or need to be redone. Again, as long as the prep work is done right and you're painting a similar color, or the same color one coat is all you really need. In cases where your using stain, one coat may be all you need or can do depending on the product you're using. Oil based stains typically just need one coat to achieve the desired result. New surfaces need 2 coats of paint every time and probably even a primer coat if you want it to last as long as possible. If a home is in really rough shape and you're doing the same or similar color, then this may be a case where two coats of paint is required as well.

If you're using a solid, water-based stain then you can also do two coats for a lasting finish. New drywall areas definitely need two coats along with 1 for sure maybe even 2 coats of PVA primer. It's not that hard to determine if you're going to need 1 coat or two. Following these simple steps will make it a lot easier to determine what you need. Simple rule of thumb would be if you're going with the same or very similar color only one is really needed as long as the surface underneath's paint is still in good shape and not peeling. If you're painting something for the first time or completely changing colors then you most likely should have two coats done.

Why Preparing a home correctly before a paint job is essential.

 Properly preparing the exterior of a home to be painted is something that may take even longer than the painting itself. The house will look a little rougher after this process, but it is crucial for a lasting paint job. Proper prep work includes but not limited to the following things, scraping, caulking, sanding, pulling nails out, applying wood filler, filling gaps with backer rod, putting in nails or screws, priming, masking, small carpentry work, taping things off, moving furniture around, pressure washing and any other services your painter may provide in order to begin painting the home. These are the main things that will be performed in order to prepare the house and they all play a big role in the final product. If these steps are not done well or some skipped, then you're not going to have a quality lasting product and probably will start to see defects after only a year or 2. The quality of products also plays a role but, in this case, we will just discuss proper home preparation etiquette.

The reason prep work on the home before paint is applied is so important is because it will be the foundation of the entire project. The home is the canvas and a properly set up canvas will make for a better final product. Scraping and caulking are some of the main things that need to be performed and might also take the longest amount of time in the prep process. Removing loose and peeling paint along with filling all cracked joints and seams as needed on the house with the proper caulk cannot be skipped. If paint isn't scraped, then you will get wood rot in those areas as well as paint peeling not long after the project is completed. Caulking will fill seams and joints, so water and moisture won't get into the home. Pressure washing will remove excess dirt, dust and debris from the house, so it is clean, dull and ready to be worked on. The surfaces to be painted or stained needs to be clean because if its dirty it will not allow for proper adhesion.

Masking when using a sprayer is a necessity. This will prevent overspray and reduce chances of paint getting on things it's not supposed to. No one wants to clean paint spray off of windows or even worse your car! Masking off decks, patios, fences, doors, windows and the ground are just a few examples. Using the proper tape for the job is also something that needs to be taken into consideration. Is it tape meant for interiors and exteriors? Is it meant to stay on for 3 days or a long time without leaving residue after its pulled? Does the tape work for rough surfaces or delicate surfaces? Many people overlook these details or they simply dont know, but its just another reason to hire a professional.

Overall, for a professional who knows what he is doing these steps are pretty straight forward. They will know about how much time they need for prep and what products to use. If there is anything that needs to be brought to your attention or addressed right away on the home, a pro should let you know. They should offer suggestions and options on how you'd like certain things done. The preparation work is absolutely essential and can be the difference between a mediocre job and one that will last 6-10 years, as intended.