What Tools do I need to stain my deck or fence?

 So, you want to stain your fence or deck on your own? Here are some things you will want to have. If you want to do it right and it was done before or its "new" and wasn't done right away and months have passed, then a pressure washer is an absolute must. If it is brand new, then pressure washing won't really be needed. A sander or sanding blocks are a good tool to have in order to smooth areas out as needed or after pressure washing.  An electric drill or hammer is good to have on hand in case some areas need new screws or nails. A stain brush along with a hard bristle brush are usually needed. Extension polls are great to have so you're not constantly bending over. A bucket, Roller, paint knap, and screen are something to have. Although you can skip these and just use a brush, but it can take a little longer to apply.

Rags may be needed depending on if you're using a wiping stain or not. Paint thinner or mineral spirits are good to have on hand for cleanup. Tape and masking paper are also great to have to help with drips and protect surfaces around the area to be stained. Cloth drops are great in order to protect the ground. If the surface was previously stained, then you'll need some stain stripper and maybe even some wood brightener if you'd like (This is where the hard bristle brush come in). And then optionally a sprayer to help apply the product. Also, one last thing that's convenient to have if your spraying are pieces of cardboard in rectangular shapes called shields. They can also be purchased already in rectangular form from Home depot, Sherwin Williams or most hardware stores. For learning purposes, I did add a few extra tools and supplies that are handy to have but this is all you should really need in order to properly stain your fence or deck. Last thing you'll need is the actual stain of your choice!

What's the Difference between a water and Oil based stain?

One thing that is often asked when it comes to stain is, what is the difference between water and oil based? As often as this question comes up and as easy as it may seem to answer, it will make a difference what you choose depending on the surface you apply it to. The simple answer is as obvious as it sounds, however they have different properties and protect the surface in different ways. Also, one is a better choice than the other depending on if you're staining something that is outside compared to a piece of furniture that sits in your living room. 

Water based stain is easier to apply and will dry faster. If you use a sprayer to apply it, the risk of overspray goes down because it dries in the air very quickly. It is used more often than not by DIY'ers because its not as messy and you don't need much experience to get a good looking final product. Water based stain also is a lot easier to clean up. Often just soap and water are needed. It can usually be cleaned off of surfaces easily if spilled compared to oil based. Basically, any big box store or hardware store that carries stain has water based.

Oil based stain on the other hand requires a little more experience, prep work and caution when applying. However, if you know what you're doing oil-based stain will yield a better looking final product and typically last a little longer if the prep work is done correctly. Cleanup is messier and will require mineral spirits or paint thinner so it literally pays to do more masking and prep work to avoid spills, drips and overspray. Oil based will take longer to dry and sometimes you only need one coat. If you decide to spray oil based it comes with the risk of overspray. Unlike water-based stain oil-based stain takes longer to dry and the particles in the air are smaller so it can literally float with the wind and get on something that's a block away. This is why it requires more prep work and experience. 

Oil based will typically be a little more water resistant, however if it is a one coat product you will most likely have to re-apply more often. Oil based over water based may also be a little more expensive and harder to find. Water based stain typically has more options on the other hand to choose from. Typically, if what your staining is going to be an outdoor piece like a bench or fence/deck a 2 coat oil based product is a good way to go. If you're in a climate with a lot of moisture this is a good route. If you're staining an indoor piece depending on experience and preference a water-based product is a good route due to it being easier to clean up and apply. You'll also notice a lot of times oil-based stain has a stronger smell and higher VOC content (Volitization of chemicals). This is another reason water based is good for indoor projects. In the end its better to stain and protect something that's not already coated then leaving it bare. One last thing to know is, that if something is already stained and you want to re-stain, avoid applying an oil-based stain over a water-based stain because it will not properly adhere. But you can apply a water-based product over an oil-based product when prep work is done correctly.

How often should I stain my Fence or Deck?

 One of the most common questions when it comes to fences or decks is, how often does it need to be painted or stained? Now in all reality the fence or deck will hold up without having been coated with paint or stain, however it will not last as long and you will see mold or rot starting to settle in after a couple years. You will also start to notice it will get darker, and this is due to mildew. Overall if it is never coated it will not last nearly as long. The paint or stain will not only seal and waterproof the wood, It of course adds an appealing look. Some people like the look of the wood and do a transparent stain, others like color and will use a solid stain or paint. Either works well, however applying stain will be a little cheaper and faster to apply.

First things first. If you decide to paint a fence or deck it should be primed first with "Oil Based" primer. Once this is done 2 coats of paint should be applied for best results. If you skip the primer, then you'll start to notice flaking and peeling fairly quickly. Depending on your local climate it may happen within 6-18 months. Overall, in my professional opinion if you want the look of a solid color, go with a solid stain. When you stain a fence or deck, primer is not required. Stain will not only give the wood some color but will act as a primer and seal/waterproof the wood as well. It may also be a little cheaper because you don't need to prime and depending on the stain you use, only one coat of stain is required.

Oil based stains usually on require one coat. Water based stain typically need 2 coats of stain. This may differ though depending on the stain you choose. In reality your climate will be a large factor in how long the product will last on your fence or deck. Decks will usually need to be done more often because of the horizontal surfaces that moisture can puddle up on. Fences don't usually need to be done as often because moisture can usually just run off and dry. Now how often should you actually have this done? Its safe to say every 1.5-2 years for decks and 2-3 years for fences. In all reality climate plays a huge role. Moisture rich climates cause more "wear and tear", High altitude and very dry climates will also break down the paint or stain faster. Sections of a fence or deck may need to be done more often due to their exposure to the elements. 

So, for example, if your back yard is full of trees and vegetation and you're in a moisture rich climate, the fence or deck may need to be done more often because it doesn't get as much exposure to the sun thus it stays damp longer. Compare this to fences or decks exposed to the sun out in the open, they are able to dry faster reducing the possibility of mold and mildew growth. On the flip side of the coin if you're in a dryer climate with little moisture annually, then the fences or decks exposed to the sun constantly will need more frequent attention. In conclusion each product may have a different recommendation on how often you should re apply. Alot of people go over 5-7 years without re-staining or painting the fences or decks or they just do sections at a time year by year. In the end though this will cause more mold and mildew growth and require extensive pressure washing most likely to end up with a desirable result. This of course comes with a higher price tag though for next time you want it done, if you decide to pay someone to do it properly. 

What Paint Finish should I use? (Flat, Eggshell, Satin, etc)

 One of the more common questions homeowners or DIY'ers have when it comes to painting is, "What finish should I use for my project?". The answer to this question really depends on what you're going to be painting. There are definitely better finishes to apply then others when it comes to certain things. Some finishes are more durable than others, while other cover better. Overall, it is important to know what finish will perform best for your particular project if you want lasting results. Hopefully this can give you some insight and a good idea of what direction you should go when choosing a finish for your next painting project.

Now a lot of painting professionals will also refer to paint finishes as "sheens". Sheen and Finish when it comes to paint is virtually the same thing to not get confused.  Some may ask, "How many finishes can there actually be for paints?". You may be surprised. Now not all paint manufactures carry all of these finishes but for the most part you will find, Flat, Matte, Eggshell, Pearl, Satin, Semi-Gloss and High gloss. The least popular finishes in my experience from working in the Midwest to the Rocky Mountains of Colorado are Matte, Pearl and High gloss. These are also a little harder to find depending on what paint product you're using because, again not all manufacturers carry all of these finishes. 

The least aggressive/shiny sheen is going to be Flat. Your most aggressive or shiny sheen is going to be high gloss, just as it sounds. Matte to Satin is everything in between. Also, it is good to know that the eggshell sheen is for interior paints ONLY. You won't typically find any exterior eggshell paint. The more shine or gloss it has to it the better it will be to clean or wipe but it will also attract more sunlight and UV rays over time. These more aggressive finishes will also bring out the profile more of the surface you are painting. This could be a good or bad thing. If you have imperfections, you would like to cover up then a less aggressive finish may be best. Good places for these more aggressive finishes are, bathrooms, doors, all trim, kitchen cabinets, high traffic or ware and tare areas plus anything else that may need a little more protection or need to get cleaned every now and again.

The less aggressive finishes are great for hiding imperfections on the surface profile, as well as tone down a room if its super bright. Flat finish in my experience is by far the most popular for ceilings. You can even find "extra flat" finish ceiling paint. These finishes will also not fade as fast. They are not however the best for cleaning, if you have to wipe marks off of a wall for example. Flat paint is also not ideal for bathrooms because of all the moisture that develops. It's not too forgivable after getting wet especially if its lower grade paint. You will also notice that the more aggressive the finish the more expensive the gallon of paint is. Flat paint is usually the cheapest and then High gloss the most expensive. 

From what I have seen here in Colorado most people like to have Flat, eggshell or satin walls on the interior of their home. It seems eggshell might be the most popular. Satin is great for cleaning without being too aggressive of a finish. Semi-gloss and satin are typical for bathrooms because they clean great and can be wiped down without ruining the paint. These finishes are also most commonly applied to interior and exterior doors and trim. For the exterior of a home, you will see mostly flat finishes with satin or semi-gloss trim/accents. Certain styles of home like Victorians typically have Satin bodies and semi/high gloss trim. One thing to note is that Satin, semi-gloss and high gloss paints may also be referred to as "enamel". This basically just means it dries harder than typical finishes. It's very common for individuals to go up one finish level for their trim work to make it pop out more. Overall, this should give you basic knowledge on how to strategically choose your sheen/finish for you next paint project!

How Long does it take to paint a house? (Exterior)

 The obvious and most vague answer to this question would be it depends on the size because it really does. However, with the right crew, tools and systems in place you can be a lot more efficient than the company down the street. The main factor other than the size of the home would be how many guys do you have working on a house at the same time. For these examples and standards were going to be talking about a typical 3-man crew. The crew lead will be an experienced master painter, 2nd in line will be a journeyman and then our last guy will have only a year or two of experience. All guys can work on ladders. (Some paint crews have men that are not allowed or don't perform work on ladders for personal or logistical reasons) This is pretty realistic though because an efficient paint crew will typically have an array of skills and experience levels. 

The amount of work that needs to be done on the home will also play a huge factor. Are you doing one coat or two? How much prep work is needed? How much high ladder work has to be done? The more the crew has to prep, move and climb up ladders the longer it will take. While working high up on ladders you work a little slower than you would working on a six-foot ladder. There are a lot of times where the prep work takes longer than the actual painting. This is usually a good thing because the painters probably did a solid job prepping the home. The initial prep work plays a massive role in the actual longevity of the paintjob.

Your average Exterior of a 1,500 sq foot home can anywhere from 4-7 days depending on how intricate the paint job will be. A color match will probably take closer to the 4 days however with a new color and double coating everything probably closer to 6. Now if you added a third or 4 color for accenting trim your closer to the 7 days. I have known of paint crews painting smaller 500 sq foot homes in 2-3 days but again it just depends on how fancy you want to get and how much you want to spend. Now on the opposite end there are homes that take closer to a month to complete. 

For these projects were talking a 3,500 sq ft Victorian home. You have probably seen them in some older neighborhoods of big cities like Chicago, St Paul, Milwaukee, Denver, New Orleans etc. These homes sometimes have not been painted in a while so require a lot of prep work. You may even have to deal with lead paint because it has been so long so be sure to check! (I ran into this working on homes in Milwaukee) A majority of these homeowners want to preserve the look so you may have up to 6 or 7 colors! Typically, they are relatively detailed and require a lot of high ladder or scaffolding work as well. Although these projects are more tedious all around, they are so fun because you have the opportunity to basically help preserve history! Overall, these kinds of jobs can go anywhere from 2-4 weeks. 

Alot of people out there have the notion that painting is really easy, and anyone can do it. However, the more you learn and do the work you realize there is a lot more to know. You notice there are more efficient ways to do the same thing. You really get an idea of what order to do things in. So next time you need a full exterior painting job done go with a professional. Don't just go with any "Joe", check them out online, look at reviews, find pictures of past work. Take notice of how they speak with you over the phone. If it all checks out, then have them get you an estimate. They should be able to give you a basic timeline of when things will be completed as well. In the end the length of time it takes in order to paint a house has many variables. Hopefully this gives you some insight on what to expect.

How to Paint the ceilings in a room (DIY)

 Alot of people attempt to paint their walls but not ceiling. Maybe they believe ceilings for some reason are more complicated or just don't think they need painted. Whatever the reason I aim to teach you how so do exactly that with minimal hassle. Like painting anything ceilings can be messy, but with the right process and systems it's not too hard. One thing you will want to take note of right away is the amount of texture on your ceiling. This will dictate how much paint you'll want to buy. For example, if you have popcorn ceiling, that will take up more paint than a smoother ceiling surface. If the ceiling has minimal texture and is the exact same as the walls, then you won't need as much. Other than a brush, roller and ladder you'll also want an extension pole, a damp rag as well as a mini or weeny roller. The mini roller will help with the heavily textured ceilings. If it's a minimally textured ceiling this mini roller may not be needed

One of the first things you will want to do is center all the furniture. However, you will want to do it in a way where you can move a ladder around the edges of the room but also so that when you are rolling the ceiling nothings in your way. The extension pole will help you reach over things. Depending on the size of the room and the amount of furniture and stuff there is, the goal is to move the furniture twice. Once to arrange to paint and second to put it all back to its original spot. Next you may want to take a few things off the wall that may get in the away or that you don't want paint on. Ceiling paint can slowly splatter as your rolling. The nice thing is that ceiling paint in particular cleans off very easily with water. Now you will want some painter's plastic to cover the furniture and furnishings. Painter's drops are good for filling in random gaps on the ground otherwise cut large pieces of plastic in order to cover the ground in fill in the spaces. You can tape the plastic to the floor or the base trim.

Next get your paint in a bucket with a roller and screen. Now some people like to paint their walls and ceiling the same color and that's fine. It just means this entire process will go faster. Just make sure you get the right sheen when buying more paint. There is on the other hand specifically ceiling paint that traditionally just comes in flat. Ceiling paint in particular applies smoothly to reduce the chances or roller marks but also hides small imperfections better and a lot of that has to do with the flat sheen. So, remember next time your choosing sheens, Satin will show all imperfections while flat will do the best job of hiding them. Alot of companies will have two painters working at the same time but for this process were going to say it's just you.

I always begin on one side of the room. Preferably the side with more room if possible. Attach the extension pole to your roller and really saturate the roller with paint. Whan rolling ceilings you almost have to do it heaver then you would be painting walls. Beginning on one side without touching the wall, raise the roller to the ceiling and begin rolling in the same motion as you would painting a wall. Move in the same direction the entire time while overlapping you last roller pass by 50%.  It's a good practice to roll in the shortest direction of the room. If you have a 12x25 room roll the 12feet over the 25ft span rather than the other way around. This is important because it will allow you to continue painting without stopping in the middle of the ceiling as much. You really want to put the paint up there on the ceiling and kind off move fast because this will allow for a smooth dry. If you try to go back over areas that are already drying with a wet roller it will show. You always want to try to only work where the paint is still wet and not go back. When and if you splatter or drip paint as your moving along, bust out your damp rag and just wipe it off right away. Work slowly to completely cover the ceilings surface area.

Lastly, you'll want to grab your ladder so you can cut the ceiling out around the wall edges and in the middle around lights/ceiling fans or vents. Grab a small cutting pot and fill it halfway with some ceiling paint. With your brush and possibly mini roller go around the edges and paint everything in that you couldn't get with the large roller. If the ceiling your painting is very textured, then you'll want to use the mini roller to fill in the tiny spaces and then come back with a brush to fill the grooves up against the wall. If not, then a min roller is optional and can just speed up the process. Repeat this again if needed. Alot of times you can get by with only cutting things in once and rolling twice, but that's up to your discretion and skill level. Ceilings can be tricky so if you want a flawless job, I recommend hiring a professional. Final steps would be to clean up the plastic and organize the room back to its original state. Oh yea, before I forget, I highly recommend wearing some protective clear eyewear as you do this and maybe even a painter's sock. (Sock looking face mask/cover for spraying). There is nothing worse than getting paint splatter all over your face, or even in your mouth and eyes! PPE is important!

How to paint the walls in a room (DIY)

 If there is something someone with no previous construction experience is going to attempt on their home, chances are its painting. You can't really cause a lot of damage if it's done incorrectly but you can make a mess! The basics of painting are not rocket science of course but most people hate the actual process of painting because its messy and they have no system on how get things done efficiently like a professional. I'm going to cover the process of painting the walls in a room for the DIY'ers out there so that it's a less daunting task, better yet, actually manageable for anyone to handle. If you break anything down into smaller parts, it becomes a lot more achievable. 

One of the first things you will want to do is move all the furniture to the center of the room and away from the walls. Next remove anything and everything from the walls. If you have a mounted TV or something else large, heavy, awkward or just a pain to take down you can always paint around it. NOTE: (A professional painting company should be removing everything and anything off the walls. This may be with or without your help.) Next you may have to dust or clean the walls in some areas. At this point you can remove any nail or tacks in the wall that are not being used. These nail holes can be filled with any drywall spackle before painting. One of the last things you will want to do is remove all electrical faceplates from the walls. A good thing to do is just tape the hardware to the plate.

Now that the furniture is out of the way and the walls are prepped its almost time to paint. Wiping down the trim boards is something you will want to do if you don't plan on painting them. Once that's done you can tape off the lip of the base boards and place some painters drops down. The tape acts as a barrier for cutting in the trim and also from paint splatter when your rolling walls. Now this next step can vary depending on if you have a helper or not.  Some companies will have one person cutting in walls, ceilings and base boards while at the same time a second painter will be rolling out the walls. However, if your solo you can do either first, it doesn't really make a huge difference. But assuming you have little experience I would suggest cutting in the walls first that way you won't have to worry about touching a freshly painted wall as your cutting things in.

  For cutting the walls in you will want a smaller container that you can fit a brush into that you can preferably hold onto easily. Painters usually call this a "Cutting pot". An old paint or coffee can will do. A solid rule of thumb is to cut ceilings in first and anything else that you will need the ladder for. That way, all that is left is corners and base boards. You will want to make the cut in lines about 5 inches wide so that you can get close to the ceiling and trim with the roller without touching them. Once that's been completed throughout the room get your paint in a 5-gallon bucket or tray. If you decide to use a 5-gallon bucket you will need a screen for the roller. This will allow for you to roll off excess paint. Trays have ridges and indentations that are supposed to act like a screen but in my opinion bucket, screen and roller is the way to go. A painters extension pole or old mop handle should be able to screw into the bottom of the roller handle and this will help reach the higher areas of the wall.

Dip your roller in and out of the paint and then roll it on the screen to completely saturate the roller with paint. With a fully loaded roller, going up towards the ceilings press the roller on the wall and start moving the roller in a vertical/parallel motion only up to your cut in line. With that much paint on the wall you will want to continue rolling in that vertical motion while going over your last roller pass by 50%. Continuing this process of wetting the rolling, rolling the paint out smoothly and overlapping each pass by 50% is how to achieve a smooth finish. Just like anything, the more you do it the better you'll get, and it will make more sense. Now depending on the color and paint you choose you may need to repeat this entire process for a second coat. Good news is, the second coat goes a lot faster. If you chose a similar color, chances are only one coat is needed. On the other hand, when you're doing a complete color change 2 coats will probably be needed for full coverage. Just remember you get what you pay for and the cheapest paints don't cover well while some higher end paints claim to cover in one coat. Whatever route you decide, I wish you good luck and to not forget your painter whites!

Best Practices for wallpaper removal!

 One thing that seems to go in and out of style is wallpaper. Some people love it while others hate the look of it. Many times, however in our modern era you'll see it mostly to preserve a certain look or in children's rooms or offices. Regardless of the situation you should know wallpaper can be very tricky to remove. Whether you're looking to replace the wallpaper, change the look or remove it completely, it really helps to know how to do it properly so that it won't take forever but also so you don't damage to the wall. After reading this you should definitely have a solid understanding of the process and how to do it. If it becomes too time consuming or too daunting of a task just call a professional, a lot of times you may just have to pay a flat hourly rate depending on how long it takes to remove.

 Like anything we do for the first time, it will probably go slow at first but once you get the hang of things it will go a lot faster. Anyone can do it and it doesn't require many steps it just one of the things that's hard to judge how long it will take, but also easy to get faster and faster at as you go. Before you begin you will need a scraper, a scoring tool, wallpaper removal spray, a few rags, gloves and then a trash bag because it gets very messy. As far as wallpaper removal spray you should use, I would honestly recommend any from Lowes, Home Depot or Sherwin Willimas. I have never had a bad experience with any of the brands they carry.

To begin you will want to score one section at a time. Whether you're removing from an entire wall or just a border the process is the same. Start on a corner or an overlapping piece and score one section at a time maybe just a 1ft x 1ft area. Don't be shy on this step because you want the scoring tool to go through and rip the wallpaper but also not to aggressive so that you start to damage the wall. Next you will want to spray the section down with your wallpaper removal spray. Wearing the gloves, you will want to get the entire section damp with the spray. I would recommend letting it soak in for about 1-3 minutes before you start to scrape it off. If wallpaper has been on for a long time, then this may take more time and require more than one score and spray. Repeat this process over and over until everything is removed. Once you get going, you'll get a good gauge on how long it will take. and how much spray to use.

Again, this may take a few attempts depending on how old the wallpaper is. Alot of times when you have scraped everything off, little pieces of the paste and old paper will be left behind dried up on the wall. If that's the case, put your gloves on to use one of your rags and dampen it with the wallpaper removal and just scrub the wall down as it should all loosen up and come off. Because it does create such a mess and there are so many tiny pieces that fly around, I like to clean up as I go. Covering the ground and using a vacuum and broom make it a lot faster to clean up as well. So, there you have it. A simple yet very effective process with easy instructions. At the bottom I will attach products I have used in the past that I know work. As well as a video link to see how it's done on a wall border. Good luck and have patience. 

Wallpaper Scoring Tool - Sherwin-Williams

Roman PRO-458 Wallpaper and Paste Remover Gel Spray | SherwinWilliams (sherwin-williams.com)

Reviews for Zinsser 32 oz. Ultra Power Wallpaper Stripper | Pg 1 - The Home Depot

Top Choice Paint and Stain (@tcpaintandstain) | Instagram profile

What tape should I use for my painting or staining project??

 Believe it or not you can use the wrong or inferior type of tape when masking things off before a paint job. The different colors tape comes depends on the manufacturer however it can also be an indicator for its main purpose and use. You will primarily see about 5 different colors, Tan, blue, green, yellow and orange. Now these can be used interchangeably however they do have specific uses for best results.

For quick paint jobs the tan or also referred to as contractor tape is your best option. It sticks for about 2-3 days without leaving residue and is a great all-around tape. Paint will bleed through however if you rely too much on the tape for a straight line. Blue tape or painter's tape is great for interior and exterior projects. The residue on blue tape usually is not as strong as the contractor tape so it's not the best for rough surfaces. It will however have a less chance of bleeding through and can stay on as long as 14 days without leaving residue. 

Green Tape primarily known as frog tape is amazing for interior projects. It's a medium residue tape with paint blocking technology allowing for smooth and crips lines so you can get paint on the tape without any worries. Next you will find yellow tape. This tape is best used for delicate surfaces such as floors, furnishings, cabinets etc. Using the wrong tape can cause damage to these delicate surfaces when pulling it off or you'll find yourself cleaning off the residue left behind. Lastly, you'll notice there is orange tape as well. This is a tape best used on rough or uneven areas primarily on exterior surfaces. You will want to leave on for a maximum of 7 days depending on the manufacturer. These can also come with UV protection technology.

To sum things up there are a few options for each kind of job so it's up to you to determine what you want to spend and how much you want to rely on the tape over your painting skills. Don't get me wrong some tapes are a lot more expensive than others, but it can be worth it to avoid a headache later on.  In the end remember a delicate surface should have a low adhesion tape applied, most interior work can be done with a medium adhesion tape.  And for exterior work you will primarily want a combination of high and medium adhesion tape. Educate yourself on the different options and read the descriptions of recommended use so you can have your highest chance of success.

What Paint grade/Quality should I use?

 What paint should I use for my project? This is a question that is frequently asked. The first thing to answer is what are you painting? Is it interior or exterior? You will find that there are many different companies that make paint. Most people know Sherwin Williams, Behr or Valspar. This is a great start however each of these have different qualities and grades you'll want to pay attention too when deciding for your project. In realty your budget will play a big role on what you choose, and all paint will color and cover whatever you put it on. However, its these things you'll want to think about so that you can put yourself in the best position for a successful and lasting outcome. Unless your using interior paint for an exterior job you can't choose the wrong paint per say but you can set yourself up to have it done again sooner then you thought.

Overall if you choose the cheapest paint, you'll probably get a result that is similar and won't last as long. Chipping and peeling will most likely occur faster along with fading color. These price differences vs quality differences are major when comparing the most expensive product to the cheapest product. Sometimes slapping some paint on something is all you need while other times you want a nice long-lasting finish that can stand up to some abuse from humans or natural elements. Cheaper paints will not cover light stains or previous colors as well as a mid-grade paint. You usually need more coats when using lower grade paint to achieve a nice rich color. Cheaper paints are not the friendliest when it comes to cleaning them especially low-grade interior paint.

When going from mid-grade to top quality paints you'll notice the differences are a little more subtle yet effective. Fewer coats are needed with high quality paint. A rich smooth color can be achieved quicker and last longer. The paint may dry faster or be more resistant to moisture. Sometimes the formulas of higher-grade paint are modified so that it produces little to no VOC or so that stains can be cleaned off without affecting the paint. In the case for the applicator, you'll notice cheaper paints are usually thinner and don't roll or brush out as smooth as mid to higher grade products. More frequent paint drips and messy overspray are also things you can expect when using cheaper paint.

In the long run do a little research on what paint to use and don't go the cheapest route if you want a solid lasting outcome. To be honest I have used a lot of different paint brands and I believe there are some out there that are more expensive because of how they are marketed. For example, I have used a higher mid-grade paint to achieve the same result as a "high grade paint".  It's totally understandable that there are times when all you want is to spend the least amount of money as possible however just consider when it's worth it and why you're doing it. Some brands have very little differences in their mid to high grade products so just take a look at the cans and make sure you're actually getting some added benefit or quality with the price tag.

What is Spot priming?

 Spot priming is exactly what it sounds like. It's the action of only priming spots that need to be. In the case with painting a home it would be all the bare wood areas after the scraping has been done. When a home is being prepared to be painted scraping has to be done. Scraping will reveal the worst peeling and chipping areas. This makes the spot priming easier and tells you where it's needed. A situation when spot priming would be used would be when you're painting the same color on the home and just need to touch a few spots up because you're only doing one coat. Another case would be spot priming an area that has a stain rather than the entire surface area. A good primer to use for these situations would be a high bonding primer. Preferrable something thicker than paint meant for spot priming.

Priming and spot priming are very important steps that cannot be skipped because it's essentially your first layer of protection. Bare areas are more vulnerable to the elements and to get the best result as possible a primer should be applied before paint. This not only promotes adhesion and bonding to the wood but is the foundation of the paint being applied. Without primer, areas peel and chip faster, collect moisture and overall don't last or look as good. This can lead to rotted wood or even worse internal damage to the home. Before priming make sure you're using the right product for the job. Anyone at the paint store should be able to briefly educate you on what to use. Some links are listed below on good primers for this kind of work. Remember if you want the hard work to last, prime bare areas with the right product and don't forget to give it 2 coats of paint after that!

Zinsser Peel Stop 1 gal. White Triple Thick Interior/Exterior High Build Binding Primer 260924 - The Home Depot

PrimeRx® Peel Bonding Primer - Sherwin-Williams

1 coat versus 2

 Some people will say one thick coat is good enough while others swear two is the only way to go. Although there is truth in both statements there really are times one is a better choice than the other. An obvious example of when two coats is needed is on a newly built home or a residential home that is completely changing color. An example of when one coat is a good idea is when you're doing a color match or slightly changing color. As long as the proper prep work has been done you will be in good shape and still have a lasting product. If you do one coat spot priming is an absolute must. A tip for spot priming is using a product that is the same or similar color to what you will be painting.

Another example of when one thick coat would be applied may be because of the customer's budget. As long as YOU the customer don't mind then this can be ok. Everything still must be prepped right though for things to last. If you go this route depending on the painter, you hire there are some risks. The color may cover 85% rather than 100%. Some areas may be missed or need to be redone. Again, as long as the prep work is done right and you're painting a similar color, or the same color one coat is all you really need. In cases where your using stain, one coat may be all you need or can do depending on the product you're using. Oil based stains typically just need one coat to achieve the desired result. New surfaces need 2 coats of paint every time and probably even a primer coat if you want it to last as long as possible. If a home is in really rough shape and you're doing the same or similar color, then this may be a case where two coats of paint is required as well.

If you're using a solid, water-based stain then you can also do two coats for a lasting finish. New drywall areas definitely need two coats along with 1 for sure maybe even 2 coats of PVA primer. It's not that hard to determine if you're going to need 1 coat or two. Following these simple steps will make it a lot easier to determine what you need. Simple rule of thumb would be if you're going with the same or very similar color only one is really needed as long as the surface underneath's paint is still in good shape and not peeling. If you're painting something for the first time or completely changing colors then you most likely should have two coats done.

Why Preparing a home correctly before a paint job is essential.

 Properly preparing the exterior of a home to be painted is something that may take even longer than the painting itself. The house will look a little rougher after this process, but it is crucial for a lasting paint job. Proper prep work includes but not limited to the following things, scraping, caulking, sanding, pulling nails out, applying wood filler, filling gaps with backer rod, putting in nails or screws, priming, masking, small carpentry work, taping things off, moving furniture around, pressure washing and any other services your painter may provide in order to begin painting the home. These are the main things that will be performed in order to prepare the house and they all play a big role in the final product. If these steps are not done well or some skipped, then you're not going to have a quality lasting product and probably will start to see defects after only a year or 2. The quality of products also plays a role but, in this case, we will just discuss proper home preparation etiquette.

The reason prep work on the home before paint is applied is so important is because it will be the foundation of the entire project. The home is the canvas and a properly set up canvas will make for a better final product. Scraping and caulking are some of the main things that need to be performed and might also take the longest amount of time in the prep process. Removing loose and peeling paint along with filling all cracked joints and seams as needed on the house with the proper caulk cannot be skipped. If paint isn't scraped, then you will get wood rot in those areas as well as paint peeling not long after the project is completed. Caulking will fill seams and joints, so water and moisture won't get into the home. Pressure washing will remove excess dirt, dust and debris from the house, so it is clean, dull and ready to be worked on. The surfaces to be painted or stained needs to be clean because if its dirty it will not allow for proper adhesion.

Masking when using a sprayer is a necessity. This will prevent overspray and reduce chances of paint getting on things it's not supposed to. No one wants to clean paint spray off of windows or even worse your car! Masking off decks, patios, fences, doors, windows and the ground are just a few examples. Using the proper tape for the job is also something that needs to be taken into consideration. Is it tape meant for interiors and exteriors? Is it meant to stay on for 3 days or a long time without leaving residue after its pulled? Does the tape work for rough surfaces or delicate surfaces? Many people overlook these details or they simply dont know, but its just another reason to hire a professional.

Overall, for a professional who knows what he is doing these steps are pretty straight forward. They will know about how much time they need for prep and what products to use. If there is anything that needs to be brought to your attention or addressed right away on the home, a pro should let you know. They should offer suggestions and options on how you'd like certain things done. The preparation work is absolutely essential and can be the difference between a mediocre job and one that will last 6-10 years, as intended.

Paint vs Stain

 A frequently asked question in the painting world is what is the difference between paint and stain? There is a big difference between them and even times when one is better than the other to use. Il break it down simply for you so if you ever find yourself wondering what product to use, you'll be able to make an educated decision. When it comes to interior work you will mostly be using paint. However, when you start getting into the high-end wood furniture, furnishings, and custom woodwork you'll probably be using stain and sealers. Sometimes the choice is obvious on what to use but people have different tastes and visions of what they want the final product to look like.

Paint is meant to cover, coat, protect, and color the wood. Essentially it sits on the surface. Stain on the other hand is also meant to coat, color and protect the surface but it does this by penetrating and being absorbed by the wood. Depending on the quality of product you use, you can also seal the wood. This will make it more resistant to moisture. Typically oil based stains last longer and need fewer coats then water-based products. These are the main differences between the two. Another obvious difference would be the amount of pigment in each type of product.

Paint is meant to cover the surface completely, so you cover what was underneath. Stain on the other hand is meant to coat the wood yet still show the surface underneath. Paint has sheen options such as flat, eggshell, satin and semi-gloss. Stain also has options but rather than sheen it's a transparency option. Examples would be transparent, semitransparent, semi solid or solid. Overall stain will protect the wood better because it is absorbed however it does require more frequent maintenance if its outside. You can expect to touch things up about every 18-24 months with stain. Paint not so much. Stain is easier to touch up as well.

These are a few things to keep on mind when deciding if you're going to paint or stain. In my experience Stain is ideal for fences, decks and any outdoor furnishing. Because stain is absorbed into the wood unlike paint, it works great for these areas considering they tend to see just as much if not more sun than the siding. Also, any areas that may accumulate standing water or get wet often such as a deck or a fence will benefit from stain over paint. In these same situations overtime paint will start to chip or peel, and the moisture will be absorbed by the wood. This is how you get rotted wood and mold and mildew to start to form. With some maintenance and the right knowledge this is easily avoidable. Next time you're wondering if you should use paint or stain, ask yourself these questions. Will the area/object be inside or outside? Where will it be, next to a window, in the living room or in the middle of your yard exposed to the sun and elements? Solid color or transparent? Do you want to see the wood grain or cover something up? Will it get wet often? Do this and you will find out what product is right for you for that project. All that being said in reality it comes down to your personal preference.

Why pressure wash before an exterior paint or stain job?

The first if not one of the first things a solid painter needs to do before applying any paint or stain to a large surface is pressure wash. Some may think this is not an important step, but it is one you don't want to skip if you want the work, you just paid for to last. Pressure washing before any paint or stain job, done correctly will remove loose paint, dirt, dust, debris, grime, bird poop, spider webs, dead bugs and other natural markings from the elements. If you do have other stains or markings on the surface, special cleaners may be needed.

This is all done to promote adhesion to the surface you're working on. Imagine basically a thin layer of dust coating the areas to be worked on. If its painted or stained without pressure washing that layer will now be trapped under the surface. If what you're working on is newly built chances are you won't have to pressure wash, but it never hurts. Over time the coating will deteriorate faster because whatever was put on the surface never had a chance to properly bond or adhere to the surface. In the case of fences or decks, pressure washing most importantly removes the mildew and mold. There are plenty of cleaners for mildew and mold that can be bought out there. Another alternative would be bleach.

As you can see this is a crucial step. The goal is to have a surface that's dry, dull but most importantly clean. Having your new paint job last for the long run is the major purpose plain and simple. Next time you are painting or staining a large project make sure to hit it with a pressure washer. Last thing, if you're working on a small area or surface just wipe it down and dust it off, no need to bust out a pressure washer! It's usually the simple steps that make a big difference. 

Best ways to prepare for a painter to come and work inside your home.

 So, it's that time and you've decided to have some interior painting work done. As exciting as it can be there are a few things you can do as a homeowner or tenant to make for a smoother process. Not all painters will do this, however a professional and courteous business should discuss with you their process before coming into your home. This is not to pass work off to you, it's more to make sure things are taken care of and any possible damage is minimized. In the long run as a business owner, I find people do respect a process and if they are physically able, are more than willing to work with you. Here are some of the things you can do.

Take pictures and decorations off the wall. Make sure to mark and identify what holes you would like to keep and communicate this to your painter. A good rule of thumb would be to leave any nails/tacks or picture hangers in place and only take things out where you would like the hole filled. Another thing you can do is if all nails have been removed, just circle with a pencil what holes you would like filled. Move valuable/priceless and personal items somewhere else so they are not broken or knocked over by accident. Bathroom items should be moved by you as well if someone is working in there. Clear wall shelving's of items. If you have a glass cabinet to be moved with some old China dishware for example or fragile items, you will definitely want to take that out. A kitchen or dining room table with a blanket on top is a good place for this temporarily. If you're having your closets painted clear them of clothing. If you're having the kitchen cabinets or pantry painted, you will want to clear them out as well. If possible, take down drapes or curtains. Blinds are usually something the painter can remove if needed but it's a good question to ask.

Something to remember is you can always ask the painters for help with some of these tasks. You should take responsibility for the fragile and valuable things but it's at your own discretion and a professional company should not have a problem helping. If you would like to move the furniture, center it in the room or pull it away from the wall at least 4ft to leave room for painting behind it. Centering the furniture is a good choice if you're having the ceilings painted. There are awesome little tools that you can put under the legs or feet of the furniture to slide it without damage, making things easier (Furniture slider). Other than mostly moving your own personal items it's pretty straight forward. Alot of painters will have a different process so it's always a good idea to ask what to expect of them and what will be included. Most companies should have no problem moving your furniture back and forth into place (with valuables cleared out and things put away). Depending on what they will or will not do can also be a gauge on your final decision. Use these sure-fire tips to help create a better experience for yourself next time you have interior painting work done.

Amazon.com : furniture slider

How Often Should I paint my Home?

 A question asked all the time for anyone in the painting Industry by homeowners is "How often should I paint my house?". This is going to vary depending on where you live in the country and what kind of climate you live in. There are of tons articles that will tell you anywhere from 5-10 years. This is a wide gap and factors do come into play that will dictate how long the paint job will hold up. Let's dig into some details on how often you should paint the exterior of your home and what things to look out for.

First of all, if you used cheap products (Paint, Caulk) from the start your going to get a final product that will not last as long. Cheap paints are exactly that, Cheap and are more of a band aid. Your home must also properly be prepped prior to the actual painting process. You don't have to buy the best paint, but the mid-grade is always a safe route to go. A professional painter should discuss with you your options. Now if you just bought a home or have been in yours for a while and have no clue if you need a paint job, this should give you all the information you need to make an educated decision. 

To begin just walk around your home and take a look at everything. Is the paint fading in areas? Are joints and seams cracked where it should be sealed? Are seals around the window cracking? Is paint chipping or peeling off? Is paint blistering or bubbling? Are there areas of rotted wood? These are just the basic things to look for but can tell you a lot. If you see any combination of these signs, it's a good chance that area needs to be repainted. Factors that will dictate how long a paint job will last are the weather and how well it was prepped prior to being painted. Assuming your home was prepped and painted properly where you live and what climate you're in plays the next biggest role. How much sun does the home receive? How much moisture does your area get annually? How much snow do you get? How many months of very cold or hot weather do you have annually?

All of these are things that will determine how long a paint job will last. For example, I operate my painting business in western Colorado. Most don't realize that's it's basically a desert climate and is very dry. With that being the conditions, its usually always the south side of homes here that peel first and take most of the beating. Do you have a side of your home that takes a lot of weather and natural element abuse? If so, this is a great place to start. Now to the point, a solid timeline for repainting your home depending on the current condition and siding material is as follows:

Wood siding: 5-7 years, Aluminum: 6-8 years, Brick: 3-5 years and Stucco: 6-10 years

Again, all the factors listed above will determine how things hold up. Having 2 coats put on in the first place will also add some years. A home that is in need of a paint job will not only damage faster but also have a lesser curb appeal. Remember to just keep an eye on things through the years and take a mental note of areas starting to deteriorate. The longer you wait when you know you need something painted, most of the time it will cost more in the long run. Be wise and call a professional or do it yourself so things don't get worse and ultimately more expensive.