Best Practices for wallpaper removal!

 One thing that seems to go in and out of style is wallpaper. Some people love it while others hate the look of it. Many times, however in our modern era you'll see it mostly to preserve a certain look or in children's rooms or offices. Regardless of the situation you should know wallpaper can be very tricky to remove. Whether you're looking to replace the wallpaper, change the look or remove it completely, it really helps to know how to do it properly so that it won't take forever but also so you don't damage to the wall. After reading this you should definitely have a solid understanding of the process and how to do it. If it becomes too time consuming or too daunting of a task just call a professional, a lot of times you may just have to pay a flat hourly rate depending on how long it takes to remove.

 Like anything we do for the first time, it will probably go slow at first but once you get the hang of things it will go a lot faster. Anyone can do it and it doesn't require many steps it just one of the things that's hard to judge how long it will take, but also easy to get faster and faster at as you go. Before you begin you will need a scraper, a scoring tool, wallpaper removal spray, a few rags, gloves and then a trash bag because it gets very messy. As far as wallpaper removal spray you should use, I would honestly recommend any from Lowes, Home Depot or Sherwin Willimas. I have never had a bad experience with any of the brands they carry.

To begin you will want to score one section at a time. Whether you're removing from an entire wall or just a border the process is the same. Start on a corner or an overlapping piece and score one section at a time maybe just a 1ft x 1ft area. Don't be shy on this step because you want the scoring tool to go through and rip the wallpaper but also not to aggressive so that you start to damage the wall. Next you will want to spray the section down with your wallpaper removal spray. Wearing the gloves, you will want to get the entire section damp with the spray. I would recommend letting it soak in for about 1-3 minutes before you start to scrape it off. If wallpaper has been on for a long time, then this may take more time and require more than one score and spray. Repeat this process over and over until everything is removed. Once you get going, you'll get a good gauge on how long it will take. and how much spray to use.

Again, this may take a few attempts depending on how old the wallpaper is. Alot of times when you have scraped everything off, little pieces of the paste and old paper will be left behind dried up on the wall. If that's the case, put your gloves on to use one of your rags and dampen it with the wallpaper removal and just scrub the wall down as it should all loosen up and come off. Because it does create such a mess and there are so many tiny pieces that fly around, I like to clean up as I go. Covering the ground and using a vacuum and broom make it a lot faster to clean up as well. So, there you have it. A simple yet very effective process with easy instructions. At the bottom I will attach products I have used in the past that I know work. As well as a video link to see how it's done on a wall border. Good luck and have patience. 

Wallpaper Scoring Tool - Sherwin-Williams

Roman PRO-458 Wallpaper and Paste Remover Gel Spray | SherwinWilliams (sherwin-williams.com)

Reviews for Zinsser 32 oz. Ultra Power Wallpaper Stripper | Pg 1 - The Home Depot

Top Choice Paint and Stain (@tcpaintandstain) | Instagram profile

What tape should I use for my painting or staining project??

 Believe it or not you can use the wrong or inferior type of tape when masking things off before a paint job. The different colors tape comes depends on the manufacturer however it can also be an indicator for its main purpose and use. You will primarily see about 5 different colors, Tan, blue, green, yellow and orange. Now these can be used interchangeably however they do have specific uses for best results.

For quick paint jobs the tan or also referred to as contractor tape is your best option. It sticks for about 2-3 days without leaving residue and is a great all-around tape. Paint will bleed through however if you rely too much on the tape for a straight line. Blue tape or painter's tape is great for interior and exterior projects. The residue on blue tape usually is not as strong as the contractor tape so it's not the best for rough surfaces. It will however have a less chance of bleeding through and can stay on as long as 14 days without leaving residue. 

Green Tape primarily known as frog tape is amazing for interior projects. It's a medium residue tape with paint blocking technology allowing for smooth and crips lines so you can get paint on the tape without any worries. Next you will find yellow tape. This tape is best used for delicate surfaces such as floors, furnishings, cabinets etc. Using the wrong tape can cause damage to these delicate surfaces when pulling it off or you'll find yourself cleaning off the residue left behind. Lastly, you'll notice there is orange tape as well. This is a tape best used on rough or uneven areas primarily on exterior surfaces. You will want to leave on for a maximum of 7 days depending on the manufacturer. These can also come with UV protection technology.

To sum things up there are a few options for each kind of job so it's up to you to determine what you want to spend and how much you want to rely on the tape over your painting skills. Don't get me wrong some tapes are a lot more expensive than others, but it can be worth it to avoid a headache later on.  In the end remember a delicate surface should have a low adhesion tape applied, most interior work can be done with a medium adhesion tape.  And for exterior work you will primarily want a combination of high and medium adhesion tape. Educate yourself on the different options and read the descriptions of recommended use so you can have your highest chance of success.

What Paint grade/Quality should I use?

 What paint should I use for my project? This is a question that is frequently asked. The first thing to answer is what are you painting? Is it interior or exterior? You will find that there are many different companies that make paint. Most people know Sherwin Williams, Behr or Valspar. This is a great start however each of these have different qualities and grades you'll want to pay attention too when deciding for your project. In realty your budget will play a big role on what you choose, and all paint will color and cover whatever you put it on. However, its these things you'll want to think about so that you can put yourself in the best position for a successful and lasting outcome. Unless your using interior paint for an exterior job you can't choose the wrong paint per say but you can set yourself up to have it done again sooner then you thought.

Overall if you choose the cheapest paint, you'll probably get a result that is similar and won't last as long. Chipping and peeling will most likely occur faster along with fading color. These price differences vs quality differences are major when comparing the most expensive product to the cheapest product. Sometimes slapping some paint on something is all you need while other times you want a nice long-lasting finish that can stand up to some abuse from humans or natural elements. Cheaper paints will not cover light stains or previous colors as well as a mid-grade paint. You usually need more coats when using lower grade paint to achieve a nice rich color. Cheaper paints are not the friendliest when it comes to cleaning them especially low-grade interior paint.

When going from mid-grade to top quality paints you'll notice the differences are a little more subtle yet effective. Fewer coats are needed with high quality paint. A rich smooth color can be achieved quicker and last longer. The paint may dry faster or be more resistant to moisture. Sometimes the formulas of higher-grade paint are modified so that it produces little to no VOC or so that stains can be cleaned off without affecting the paint. In the case for the applicator, you'll notice cheaper paints are usually thinner and don't roll or brush out as smooth as mid to higher grade products. More frequent paint drips and messy overspray are also things you can expect when using cheaper paint.

In the long run do a little research on what paint to use and don't go the cheapest route if you want a solid lasting outcome. To be honest I have used a lot of different paint brands and I believe there are some out there that are more expensive because of how they are marketed. For example, I have used a higher mid-grade paint to achieve the same result as a "high grade paint".  It's totally understandable that there are times when all you want is to spend the least amount of money as possible however just consider when it's worth it and why you're doing it. Some brands have very little differences in their mid to high grade products so just take a look at the cans and make sure you're actually getting some added benefit or quality with the price tag.