What Tools do I need to stain my deck or fence?

 So, you want to stain your fence or deck on your own? Here are some things you will want to have. If you want to do it right and it was done before or its "new" and wasn't done right away and months have passed, then a pressure washer is an absolute must. If it is brand new, then pressure washing won't really be needed. A sander or sanding blocks are a good tool to have in order to smooth areas out as needed or after pressure washing.  An electric drill or hammer is good to have on hand in case some areas need new screws or nails. A stain brush along with a hard bristle brush are usually needed. Extension polls are great to have so you're not constantly bending over. A bucket, Roller, paint knap, and screen are something to have. Although you can skip these and just use a brush, but it can take a little longer to apply.

Rags may be needed depending on if you're using a wiping stain or not. Paint thinner or mineral spirits are good to have on hand for cleanup. Tape and masking paper are also great to have to help with drips and protect surfaces around the area to be stained. Cloth drops are great in order to protect the ground. If the surface was previously stained, then you'll need some stain stripper and maybe even some wood brightener if you'd like (This is where the hard bristle brush come in). And then optionally a sprayer to help apply the product. Also, one last thing that's convenient to have if your spraying are pieces of cardboard in rectangular shapes called shields. They can also be purchased already in rectangular form from Home depot, Sherwin Williams or most hardware stores. For learning purposes, I did add a few extra tools and supplies that are handy to have but this is all you should really need in order to properly stain your fence or deck. Last thing you'll need is the actual stain of your choice!

What's the Difference between a water and Oil based stain?

One thing that is often asked when it comes to stain is, what is the difference between water and oil based? As often as this question comes up and as easy as it may seem to answer, it will make a difference what you choose depending on the surface you apply it to. The simple answer is as obvious as it sounds, however they have different properties and protect the surface in different ways. Also, one is a better choice than the other depending on if you're staining something that is outside compared to a piece of furniture that sits in your living room. 

Water based stain is easier to apply and will dry faster. If you use a sprayer to apply it, the risk of overspray goes down because it dries in the air very quickly. It is used more often than not by DIY'ers because its not as messy and you don't need much experience to get a good looking final product. Water based stain also is a lot easier to clean up. Often just soap and water are needed. It can usually be cleaned off of surfaces easily if spilled compared to oil based. Basically, any big box store or hardware store that carries stain has water based.

Oil based stain on the other hand requires a little more experience, prep work and caution when applying. However, if you know what you're doing oil-based stain will yield a better looking final product and typically last a little longer if the prep work is done correctly. Cleanup is messier and will require mineral spirits or paint thinner so it literally pays to do more masking and prep work to avoid spills, drips and overspray. Oil based will take longer to dry and sometimes you only need one coat. If you decide to spray oil based it comes with the risk of overspray. Unlike water-based stain oil-based stain takes longer to dry and the particles in the air are smaller so it can literally float with the wind and get on something that's a block away. This is why it requires more prep work and experience. 

Oil based will typically be a little more water resistant, however if it is a one coat product you will most likely have to re-apply more often. Oil based over water based may also be a little more expensive and harder to find. Water based stain typically has more options on the other hand to choose from. Typically, if what your staining is going to be an outdoor piece like a bench or fence/deck a 2 coat oil based product is a good way to go. If you're in a climate with a lot of moisture this is a good route. If you're staining an indoor piece depending on experience and preference a water-based product is a good route due to it being easier to clean up and apply. You'll also notice a lot of times oil-based stain has a stronger smell and higher VOC content (Volitization of chemicals). This is another reason water based is good for indoor projects. In the end its better to stain and protect something that's not already coated then leaving it bare. One last thing to know is, that if something is already stained and you want to re-stain, avoid applying an oil-based stain over a water-based stain because it will not properly adhere. But you can apply a water-based product over an oil-based product when prep work is done correctly.

How often should I stain my Fence or Deck?

 One of the most common questions when it comes to fences or decks is, how often does it need to be painted or stained? Now in all reality the fence or deck will hold up without having been coated with paint or stain, however it will not last as long and you will see mold or rot starting to settle in after a couple years. You will also start to notice it will get darker, and this is due to mildew. Overall if it is never coated it will not last nearly as long. The paint or stain will not only seal and waterproof the wood, It of course adds an appealing look. Some people like the look of the wood and do a transparent stain, others like color and will use a solid stain or paint. Either works well, however applying stain will be a little cheaper and faster to apply.

First things first. If you decide to paint a fence or deck it should be primed first with "Oil Based" primer. Once this is done 2 coats of paint should be applied for best results. If you skip the primer, then you'll start to notice flaking and peeling fairly quickly. Depending on your local climate it may happen within 6-18 months. Overall, in my professional opinion if you want the look of a solid color, go with a solid stain. When you stain a fence or deck, primer is not required. Stain will not only give the wood some color but will act as a primer and seal/waterproof the wood as well. It may also be a little cheaper because you don't need to prime and depending on the stain you use, only one coat of stain is required.

Oil based stains usually on require one coat. Water based stain typically need 2 coats of stain. This may differ though depending on the stain you choose. In reality your climate will be a large factor in how long the product will last on your fence or deck. Decks will usually need to be done more often because of the horizontal surfaces that moisture can puddle up on. Fences don't usually need to be done as often because moisture can usually just run off and dry. Now how often should you actually have this done? Its safe to say every 1.5-2 years for decks and 2-3 years for fences. In all reality climate plays a huge role. Moisture rich climates cause more "wear and tear", High altitude and very dry climates will also break down the paint or stain faster. Sections of a fence or deck may need to be done more often due to their exposure to the elements. 

So, for example, if your back yard is full of trees and vegetation and you're in a moisture rich climate, the fence or deck may need to be done more often because it doesn't get as much exposure to the sun thus it stays damp longer. Compare this to fences or decks exposed to the sun out in the open, they are able to dry faster reducing the possibility of mold and mildew growth. On the flip side of the coin if you're in a dryer climate with little moisture annually, then the fences or decks exposed to the sun constantly will need more frequent attention. In conclusion each product may have a different recommendation on how often you should re apply. Alot of people go over 5-7 years without re-staining or painting the fences or decks or they just do sections at a time year by year. In the end though this will cause more mold and mildew growth and require extensive pressure washing most likely to end up with a desirable result. This of course comes with a higher price tag though for next time you want it done, if you decide to pay someone to do it properly. 

What Paint Finish should I use? (Flat, Eggshell, Satin, etc)

 One of the more common questions homeowners or DIY'ers have when it comes to painting is, "What finish should I use for my project?". The answer to this question really depends on what you're going to be painting. There are definitely better finishes to apply then others when it comes to certain things. Some finishes are more durable than others, while other cover better. Overall, it is important to know what finish will perform best for your particular project if you want lasting results. Hopefully this can give you some insight and a good idea of what direction you should go when choosing a finish for your next painting project.

Now a lot of painting professionals will also refer to paint finishes as "sheens". Sheen and Finish when it comes to paint is virtually the same thing to not get confused.  Some may ask, "How many finishes can there actually be for paints?". You may be surprised. Now not all paint manufactures carry all of these finishes but for the most part you will find, Flat, Matte, Eggshell, Pearl, Satin, Semi-Gloss and High gloss. The least popular finishes in my experience from working in the Midwest to the Rocky Mountains of Colorado are Matte, Pearl and High gloss. These are also a little harder to find depending on what paint product you're using because, again not all manufacturers carry all of these finishes. 

The least aggressive/shiny sheen is going to be Flat. Your most aggressive or shiny sheen is going to be high gloss, just as it sounds. Matte to Satin is everything in between. Also, it is good to know that the eggshell sheen is for interior paints ONLY. You won't typically find any exterior eggshell paint. The more shine or gloss it has to it the better it will be to clean or wipe but it will also attract more sunlight and UV rays over time. These more aggressive finishes will also bring out the profile more of the surface you are painting. This could be a good or bad thing. If you have imperfections, you would like to cover up then a less aggressive finish may be best. Good places for these more aggressive finishes are, bathrooms, doors, all trim, kitchen cabinets, high traffic or ware and tare areas plus anything else that may need a little more protection or need to get cleaned every now and again.

The less aggressive finishes are great for hiding imperfections on the surface profile, as well as tone down a room if its super bright. Flat finish in my experience is by far the most popular for ceilings. You can even find "extra flat" finish ceiling paint. These finishes will also not fade as fast. They are not however the best for cleaning, if you have to wipe marks off of a wall for example. Flat paint is also not ideal for bathrooms because of all the moisture that develops. It's not too forgivable after getting wet especially if its lower grade paint. You will also notice that the more aggressive the finish the more expensive the gallon of paint is. Flat paint is usually the cheapest and then High gloss the most expensive. 

From what I have seen here in Colorado most people like to have Flat, eggshell or satin walls on the interior of their home. It seems eggshell might be the most popular. Satin is great for cleaning without being too aggressive of a finish. Semi-gloss and satin are typical for bathrooms because they clean great and can be wiped down without ruining the paint. These finishes are also most commonly applied to interior and exterior doors and trim. For the exterior of a home, you will see mostly flat finishes with satin or semi-gloss trim/accents. Certain styles of home like Victorians typically have Satin bodies and semi/high gloss trim. One thing to note is that Satin, semi-gloss and high gloss paints may also be referred to as "enamel". This basically just means it dries harder than typical finishes. It's very common for individuals to go up one finish level for their trim work to make it pop out more. Overall, this should give you basic knowledge on how to strategically choose your sheen/finish for you next paint project!

How Long does it take to paint a house? (Exterior)

 The obvious and most vague answer to this question would be it depends on the size because it really does. However, with the right crew, tools and systems in place you can be a lot more efficient than the company down the street. The main factor other than the size of the home would be how many guys do you have working on a house at the same time. For these examples and standards were going to be talking about a typical 3-man crew. The crew lead will be an experienced master painter, 2nd in line will be a journeyman and then our last guy will have only a year or two of experience. All guys can work on ladders. (Some paint crews have men that are not allowed or don't perform work on ladders for personal or logistical reasons) This is pretty realistic though because an efficient paint crew will typically have an array of skills and experience levels. 

The amount of work that needs to be done on the home will also play a huge factor. Are you doing one coat or two? How much prep work is needed? How much high ladder work has to be done? The more the crew has to prep, move and climb up ladders the longer it will take. While working high up on ladders you work a little slower than you would working on a six-foot ladder. There are a lot of times where the prep work takes longer than the actual painting. This is usually a good thing because the painters probably did a solid job prepping the home. The initial prep work plays a massive role in the actual longevity of the paintjob.

Your average Exterior of a 1,500 sq foot home can anywhere from 4-7 days depending on how intricate the paint job will be. A color match will probably take closer to the 4 days however with a new color and double coating everything probably closer to 6. Now if you added a third or 4 color for accenting trim your closer to the 7 days. I have known of paint crews painting smaller 500 sq foot homes in 2-3 days but again it just depends on how fancy you want to get and how much you want to spend. Now on the opposite end there are homes that take closer to a month to complete. 

For these projects were talking a 3,500 sq ft Victorian home. You have probably seen them in some older neighborhoods of big cities like Chicago, St Paul, Milwaukee, Denver, New Orleans etc. These homes sometimes have not been painted in a while so require a lot of prep work. You may even have to deal with lead paint because it has been so long so be sure to check! (I ran into this working on homes in Milwaukee) A majority of these homeowners want to preserve the look so you may have up to 6 or 7 colors! Typically, they are relatively detailed and require a lot of high ladder or scaffolding work as well. Although these projects are more tedious all around, they are so fun because you have the opportunity to basically help preserve history! Overall, these kinds of jobs can go anywhere from 2-4 weeks. 

Alot of people out there have the notion that painting is really easy, and anyone can do it. However, the more you learn and do the work you realize there is a lot more to know. You notice there are more efficient ways to do the same thing. You really get an idea of what order to do things in. So next time you need a full exterior painting job done go with a professional. Don't just go with any "Joe", check them out online, look at reviews, find pictures of past work. Take notice of how they speak with you over the phone. If it all checks out, then have them get you an estimate. They should be able to give you a basic timeline of when things will be completed as well. In the end the length of time it takes in order to paint a house has many variables. Hopefully this gives you some insight on what to expect.

How to Paint the ceilings in a room (DIY)

 Alot of people attempt to paint their walls but not ceiling. Maybe they believe ceilings for some reason are more complicated or just don't think they need painted. Whatever the reason I aim to teach you how so do exactly that with minimal hassle. Like painting anything ceilings can be messy, but with the right process and systems it's not too hard. One thing you will want to take note of right away is the amount of texture on your ceiling. This will dictate how much paint you'll want to buy. For example, if you have popcorn ceiling, that will take up more paint than a smoother ceiling surface. If the ceiling has minimal texture and is the exact same as the walls, then you won't need as much. Other than a brush, roller and ladder you'll also want an extension pole, a damp rag as well as a mini or weeny roller. The mini roller will help with the heavily textured ceilings. If it's a minimally textured ceiling this mini roller may not be needed

One of the first things you will want to do is center all the furniture. However, you will want to do it in a way where you can move a ladder around the edges of the room but also so that when you are rolling the ceiling nothings in your way. The extension pole will help you reach over things. Depending on the size of the room and the amount of furniture and stuff there is, the goal is to move the furniture twice. Once to arrange to paint and second to put it all back to its original spot. Next you may want to take a few things off the wall that may get in the away or that you don't want paint on. Ceiling paint can slowly splatter as your rolling. The nice thing is that ceiling paint in particular cleans off very easily with water. Now you will want some painter's plastic to cover the furniture and furnishings. Painter's drops are good for filling in random gaps on the ground otherwise cut large pieces of plastic in order to cover the ground in fill in the spaces. You can tape the plastic to the floor or the base trim.

Next get your paint in a bucket with a roller and screen. Now some people like to paint their walls and ceiling the same color and that's fine. It just means this entire process will go faster. Just make sure you get the right sheen when buying more paint. There is on the other hand specifically ceiling paint that traditionally just comes in flat. Ceiling paint in particular applies smoothly to reduce the chances or roller marks but also hides small imperfections better and a lot of that has to do with the flat sheen. So, remember next time your choosing sheens, Satin will show all imperfections while flat will do the best job of hiding them. Alot of companies will have two painters working at the same time but for this process were going to say it's just you.

I always begin on one side of the room. Preferably the side with more room if possible. Attach the extension pole to your roller and really saturate the roller with paint. Whan rolling ceilings you almost have to do it heaver then you would be painting walls. Beginning on one side without touching the wall, raise the roller to the ceiling and begin rolling in the same motion as you would painting a wall. Move in the same direction the entire time while overlapping you last roller pass by 50%.  It's a good practice to roll in the shortest direction of the room. If you have a 12x25 room roll the 12feet over the 25ft span rather than the other way around. This is important because it will allow you to continue painting without stopping in the middle of the ceiling as much. You really want to put the paint up there on the ceiling and kind off move fast because this will allow for a smooth dry. If you try to go back over areas that are already drying with a wet roller it will show. You always want to try to only work where the paint is still wet and not go back. When and if you splatter or drip paint as your moving along, bust out your damp rag and just wipe it off right away. Work slowly to completely cover the ceilings surface area.

Lastly, you'll want to grab your ladder so you can cut the ceiling out around the wall edges and in the middle around lights/ceiling fans or vents. Grab a small cutting pot and fill it halfway with some ceiling paint. With your brush and possibly mini roller go around the edges and paint everything in that you couldn't get with the large roller. If the ceiling your painting is very textured, then you'll want to use the mini roller to fill in the tiny spaces and then come back with a brush to fill the grooves up against the wall. If not, then a min roller is optional and can just speed up the process. Repeat this again if needed. Alot of times you can get by with only cutting things in once and rolling twice, but that's up to your discretion and skill level. Ceilings can be tricky so if you want a flawless job, I recommend hiring a professional. Final steps would be to clean up the plastic and organize the room back to its original state. Oh yea, before I forget, I highly recommend wearing some protective clear eyewear as you do this and maybe even a painter's sock. (Sock looking face mask/cover for spraying). There is nothing worse than getting paint splatter all over your face, or even in your mouth and eyes! PPE is important!

How to paint the walls in a room (DIY)

 If there is something someone with no previous construction experience is going to attempt on their home, chances are its painting. You can't really cause a lot of damage if it's done incorrectly but you can make a mess! The basics of painting are not rocket science of course but most people hate the actual process of painting because its messy and they have no system on how get things done efficiently like a professional. I'm going to cover the process of painting the walls in a room for the DIY'ers out there so that it's a less daunting task, better yet, actually manageable for anyone to handle. If you break anything down into smaller parts, it becomes a lot more achievable. 

One of the first things you will want to do is move all the furniture to the center of the room and away from the walls. Next remove anything and everything from the walls. If you have a mounted TV or something else large, heavy, awkward or just a pain to take down you can always paint around it. NOTE: (A professional painting company should be removing everything and anything off the walls. This may be with or without your help.) Next you may have to dust or clean the walls in some areas. At this point you can remove any nail or tacks in the wall that are not being used. These nail holes can be filled with any drywall spackle before painting. One of the last things you will want to do is remove all electrical faceplates from the walls. A good thing to do is just tape the hardware to the plate.

Now that the furniture is out of the way and the walls are prepped its almost time to paint. Wiping down the trim boards is something you will want to do if you don't plan on painting them. Once that's done you can tape off the lip of the base boards and place some painters drops down. The tape acts as a barrier for cutting in the trim and also from paint splatter when your rolling walls. Now this next step can vary depending on if you have a helper or not.  Some companies will have one person cutting in walls, ceilings and base boards while at the same time a second painter will be rolling out the walls. However, if your solo you can do either first, it doesn't really make a huge difference. But assuming you have little experience I would suggest cutting in the walls first that way you won't have to worry about touching a freshly painted wall as your cutting things in.

  For cutting the walls in you will want a smaller container that you can fit a brush into that you can preferably hold onto easily. Painters usually call this a "Cutting pot". An old paint or coffee can will do. A solid rule of thumb is to cut ceilings in first and anything else that you will need the ladder for. That way, all that is left is corners and base boards. You will want to make the cut in lines about 5 inches wide so that you can get close to the ceiling and trim with the roller without touching them. Once that's been completed throughout the room get your paint in a 5-gallon bucket or tray. If you decide to use a 5-gallon bucket you will need a screen for the roller. This will allow for you to roll off excess paint. Trays have ridges and indentations that are supposed to act like a screen but in my opinion bucket, screen and roller is the way to go. A painters extension pole or old mop handle should be able to screw into the bottom of the roller handle and this will help reach the higher areas of the wall.

Dip your roller in and out of the paint and then roll it on the screen to completely saturate the roller with paint. With a fully loaded roller, going up towards the ceilings press the roller on the wall and start moving the roller in a vertical/parallel motion only up to your cut in line. With that much paint on the wall you will want to continue rolling in that vertical motion while going over your last roller pass by 50%. Continuing this process of wetting the rolling, rolling the paint out smoothly and overlapping each pass by 50% is how to achieve a smooth finish. Just like anything, the more you do it the better you'll get, and it will make more sense. Now depending on the color and paint you choose you may need to repeat this entire process for a second coat. Good news is, the second coat goes a lot faster. If you chose a similar color, chances are only one coat is needed. On the other hand, when you're doing a complete color change 2 coats will probably be needed for full coverage. Just remember you get what you pay for and the cheapest paints don't cover well while some higher end paints claim to cover in one coat. Whatever route you decide, I wish you good luck and to not forget your painter whites!